F27- Aft fuselage side panel vertical pieces and misc. details,

F26- Aft fuselage side panel fuselage skins, longerons, and splice brackets

The fairlead blocks (guides for the rudder cables) are the first pieces I made. I bought some forstner bits to drill the holes in the phenolic blocks. It's always a good day when you get to buy a new tool...The next pictures show the vertical pieces that go onto the inside of the aft fuse side panels- F27-04,3,2,1

Below are all 5 finished vertical pieces along with the rudder stop plates and a couple of the splice pieces. The fairleads go on the 01 and 05 vertical pieces. I drilled  the intermediate holes for the rudder cables at 1" instead of 3/4" so I had to come up with some larger snap bushings for those holes. The bushings protect the rudder cables from chafing on the holes they pass through on the way back to the rudder horns. Second a shot of starting the rudder cable hole and the mark for the access plate. Lastly a shot of a makeshift bending brake I put together to put the bend in the leading edge of the aft skins using not-yet-finished blank cut pieces.

First is a shot showing when I was fitting aft skins to upper and lower aft longerons. In the middle is a shot of two of the splice plate brackets.

First shot is fitting of the right rudder stop plate- flip over and use the holes in skin and longeron as template. The second and third shots I took here were of playing with the Nuvite polish on the right aft skin.

More shots of the same...after polishing the right side of the aft fuselage, it made such a mess that I thought it would be really messy to polish everything before I put it together, but eventually I ended up polishing all the skins for the other side skin, turtle desk skins, and cockpit side skins.

Some shots of the F24 pieces....First setting the angle on the #1 lower crosstie, then showing lower crossties 2 and 3 --F24-05,06,07,08,09 The third shot is setting up the cross-tie box - F24-11,12.

A couple more shots of drilling the cross-tie box. I used blocks to clamp the angles down to the work surface and a double square set at 3" to keep it square. The third pictures show drilling the last web-to-channel holes. I clecoed it to the bench to keep it flat before drilling the second web